![]() This requires loosening the tension at the EXUP valve itself before removing the cable, then you can have the necessary slack at the servo motor located under the seat to undo the cabling up there. After that comes removal of the push/pull cables used for the Yamaha EXUP valve, as the valves and the cables won’t be needed anymore. Removing the stock silencer gives you space to slide the stock cat off the exhaust headers. ![]() You also need to loosen the O2 sensors and place them out of the way (more on that in a minute). Most of these bolts and brackets won’t be reused. There are a series of bolts to loosen or remove, some of which reveal brackets that are primarily to support the heft of the stock cat. Installation of the midpipe is simple – it’s removing the stock midpipe/cat that’s a bit of a process. Not to mention, keeping the stock silencer retains the sleeper appearance and a modest exhaust note at idle. I like it because it also lets you keep the stock silencer, so you’re not forced to spend additional money to buy a slip-on exhaust if you don’t want to. If keeping your motorcycle 100% road-legal is of utmost importance to you, then stop reading this section now.įor the rest of you, the Leo Vince cat-delete midpipe (and others like it) is a cheap and simple upgrade that not only frees up some power and awakens a rumbling (but subtle) growl from the engine, but it also sheds over 13 lbs from the bottom of the bike. If you have the standard MT-10 and not the SP, I’d suggest changing the pads first, then replacing the rubber lines for steel. But overall, this upgrade is an absolute must for any MT owner, in my opinion. If I were to nitpick, I’d say the Brembo master cylinder is now the weak link, as there feels like a tiny bit of play in the lever, different from air in the lines. The harder I pull the lever, the more eager the bike is to slow down. And thanks to that strong initial bite, the overall braking power feels more robust, too. The initial bite is immediately stronger than the stock pads, which is a big complaint with the soft standard pads. This removes the old pad material and lets the new pads bite onto the disc.Īs for the results – well, let’s just say it reinforces what we say a lot here at MO: brake pads can transform a mediocre brake setup. Of course, don’t forget to take some high-grit sandpaper or a Scotchbrite pad and wipe down the brake rotor before bedding in the new pads. ![]() It’s an easy five-minute job with big results. Installation is super easy, too, as you just need to remove a clip, slide the old pads out, slide the new ones in, and reinstall the clip. For only $80, it’s a huge value for dramatic braking performance, especially over the stock pads. EBC was kind enough to send its HH sintered brake pads, which are its most aggressive. I uploaded some pictures so you can also see how that is looking like.First up, the brakes. I wonder does anyone of you guys have any idea how to maybe bypass the limiter or to do something else so I can drive faster? I don’t want to fully remove restriction beacuse of the kids and 60kmh is enough for off-roading but when driving on the road it’s just too slow. I also sent e-mail to the italian ECU manufactuer named Quaddy is there any way to remove restriction and got the answer they can sell me ECU without restriction. My seller told me that to remove that restriction some wires have to be reconnected ( didn’t said which and i don’t belive him 100% beacuse he didn’t mention fake ECU). I did some research about that and found that my original ECU is replaced with aftermarket Quaddy ECU that limits speed. Limiter kicks just like reverse limiter or reving engine while in P or N mode, it makes the same sound. I bought recently brand new Grizzly 700 and it came with 60 km/h speed restriction due to european T3b homologation rules.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |